Match of the week

Orange, yoghurt and filo cake and Pacherenc du Vic Bilh
Every so often you come across a recipe that is such a winner you know you’re going to make it at every dinner party - or, rather more my style, kitchen supper - for the next year.
The orange, yoghurt and filo cake in Georgie Hayden’s lovely new book Taverna is exactly that. It's too complicated to explain exactly how to make it in this post - and anyway you should buy the book - but it’s basically an orange flavoured custardy pudding of great loveliness. (Called portokalopita in Cyprus and Greece)
Not only that but it’s brilliant with wine as I discovered when I pulled out a bottle of an obscure dessert wine from the south-west of France called Pacherenc du Vic Bilh to drink with it.
It’s called Maestria, from the 2015 vintage, and made equally obscure local grape varieties Gros Manseng, Petit Manseng, Courbu and Arrufiac if you want to show off.
While lusciously sweet it’s lighter and fresher than many dessert wines with a touch of apricot that chimed perfectly with the cake. You can buy it from Tanners for an very affordable £10.20. (You could also of course drink a Greek muscat with it.)
So, four recommendations in one this week: a brilliant recipe from a terrific book (more recipe highlights here), a good wine recommendation and a top wine pairing. What more do you want!

Cheese, pear chutney and Jurançon
This might not have been the best match of the week - that honour goes to the turbot and orange wine pairing I experienced at Ellory which I’ve already written up here - but it’s the one that’s easiest to replicate at home.
It was at a swish new Bristol restaurant called Adelina Yard which does what must be one of the best fixed price lunch deals in the country. Three brilliant courses for just £15.
I went with my friend wine writer Susy Atkins so you’d think we’d have done some damage to the wine list but we virtuously decided to have a alcohol-free lunch. Until, that is, I tried the pear chutney that went with the cheese plate and decided it was crying out for a glass of sweet wine.
It’s one you might be unaware of - a sweet Jurançon* from south-west France called Symphonie de Novembre from Domaine Cauhapé, one of my favourite Jurançon producers. Although it was from the 2010 vintage it was still really fresh with lovely lush apricot and passionfruit flavours. A real treat. You can buy it from James Nicholson for £11.99 a half bottle and around £13 from WoodWinters and various other independents. The Wine Society has full-sized bottles of the 2012 for £19.
And the cheeses? I was afraid you were going to ask me that. I can’t remember to be honest, we were yammering so much. But they included (I think) a goats cheese, an Ubriaco, a Pecorino and a Shropshire Blue. But the chutney was the real inspiration**.
*Sweet Jurancon is just labelled Jurançon. If it’s a dry wine it’s referred to as Jurançon Sec.
** Note, it wasn't a very vinegary chutney which can be a bit brutal for wine. More like a pear compote.
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